Saturday, 30 July 2011

67th Liberation Day



On December 10, 1941, Guam surrendered to the Japanese South Seas detachment forces after a valiant defensive struggle by the island's Insular Force Guard and a limited number of U.S. marines. Guam became the only populated U.S. soil to be occupied by another country in World War II. Guam was renamed "Omiya Jima" and for 31 months, her people of were forcibly subjected to intolerable hardships administered by the Japanese military. Although some measure of religious practice and business activities were permitted, atrocities, grenade slaughters and rapes were common. Concentration camps were established by the 29th Division of Japan's Kwantung Army and approximately 600 Chamorro's were executed. Some Chamorro's were beheaded when the Japanese learned of the 3-year humanitarian effort to successfully feed and hide U.S. Navy radioman George Tweed who escaped in the initial invasion. 


On the morning of July 21, 1944, after one of the longest and heaviest pre-assault naval bombardments of the war, the American recapture of Guam began, with simultaneous landings at Asan and Agat. About 55,000 men of the 3rd Marine Division, 1st Provisional Marine Brigade and 305th Regimental Combat Team of the 77th Army Infantry Division, storm the beaches. By day's end, both beaches are secured.In the three weeks that followed, Americans cleared Orote Peninsula and secured Fonte Plateau. They then move north toward Hagania, Barrigada, Mount Santa Rosa and on to Ritidian Point, at which point the island is declared secure. 


The island made of flowers.
Liberation day is a holiday unique to Guam. It is the most celebrated day of the year and is framed by a series of fiestas, carnivals, memorials and tributes to honor those who gave their all during the Japanese occupation. To culminate the month long celebration, the annual parade closes down Marine Drive and invites families to camp out in attempt to secure the best seat. Chamorro families often set up tents, haul coolers and bbqs, cook food and celebrate, often for days after the parade, in recognition of Guam's liberation during World War II. 


Guam's Rockettes
With the days leading up to the parade we heard over and over, "you have to go once". So we did. With the parade as an "alternative duty location" for Ryan, we packed our backpack with sunscreen, water, snacks, and a towel to sit on and ventured down to the parade route. Arriving at 8:00 we tracked down our friend Ann Marie, staked out our spots and settled in for a day at the parade. Directly across the street was the grand stand. I was thrilled, thinking "if this is anything like the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade, we have perfect seats. The rockettes will perform right there, the music acts are with in arms reach. Where else would we want to sit?" Okay, it wasn't the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade, but we were entertained. 


About an hour and half after our arrival the parade kicked off with a brigade of motorcycles. The roar was deafening. Quickly there after was a fly over by a B-52 and 2 helicopters. 19 classic cars followed delivering the 19 grand marshalls, all of whom were survivors of WWII. Troops from the Guam National Guard, Navy fleets, Guam Air Guard, Air Force, and Army marched. The Marine Corps Band played the Guam Hymn and National Anthem. Floats representing everything Miss Guam to the Corrections Department followed. Ann Marie's husband, Nate, was on the REDHORSE float so our plan was to wait for his arrival before leaving. We waited and waited, at 12:40 the REDHORSE crew finally made it. 




You do the math, that was 4 hours and 40 minutes that we 'watched' the parade. One might think, "You're only sitting there" but that was not the case. About 5 minutes into the parade, Ann Marie and I realized we are going to be running from our curb to the median over and over to get the best pictures. (We were sitting on the south bound curb, the parade was in the north bound lanes.) To solve the problem, we moved. Ann Marie, Ryan and myself hunkered down on the grassy median along with the half dozen other media personnel. With our perfect vantage point, the parade passed just inches from our feet. 



With every brilliant idea there was a down fall, we were in the middle of the road, with ABSOLUTELY NO cover from the inevitable Guam rain. We are laughing, waving at the parade participants and enjoying the candy that was tossed out when Ryan looks north up the road and barely has time to say, "we are about to get wet" before the sky opens up. The three of us grab our stuff, run back to our original side of the road and find an over hang to stand under. 


If you ever visit Guam, the first thing you notice is the rain comes and goes quicker than you thought possible. With the sun back out we reclaim our spot and continue the celebration. Not 20 minutes later the next rain cloud ventures towards us. We decide to stay in our spot and wait it out. Great idea, we thought. As we are dripping wet, and the 10 minute rain is not even starting to let up, the media people begin to laugh. As we look around we realize we are the only ones with out an umbrella. One photographer walked towards us and while chuckling he asked 'is this your first liberation day?" "Yes" we responded. He smiled and simply advised us, "bring an umbrella next year, it always rains". Awesome. We're the new kids on the block.... you live and learn. Before we dried from the rain, a seemingly random chamorro



I'll post a few picture and the best explanation I can just to give you a taste of the celebration and gratitude the chamorro people still have for the sacrifice of the men who delivered their land from Japanese occupation. 
need we say more?

transformer car (maybe)


They were really cooking the pig.

Random Bag Piper

The crowds cheer as every formation of service personnel passed.
The pride is something I have never seen in the States. 

The Chammoros are very proud of their land of the US Troops.

For all our Asheville friends we hope you enjoyed Bele Cher weekend. Have a great rest of your summer. See you next time from our rock in the middle of the Pacific.

Tuesday, 12 July 2011

celebrating summer where it's always 'summer'

Summers have always been full of grandiose adventures. Family vacations, adventurous weeks at camp, hiking with friends, mission trips that span the seven seas, endless hours spent at the pool, night after night of ice cream cones and more festivals than anyone could possibly enjoy. Well, this summer is no different.

Okay. It's a little different. Our 'family vaccation' will be in September when we celebrate Grant and Patricia's wedding. Our hiking no longer include gazing from the top of mountains, instead they offer breath taking views of the massiveness of the Pacific Ocean. Our mission trip is a 10 minute drive to base each Thursday night to love on our youth group. We have yet to venture to the pool, instead we enjoy our time at the beach. Ice cream cones have been replaced by "shaved ice surprise" at Mt. Lam Lam. (Basically like the Hawaiian shaved ice you get at Myrtle Beach, but in the middle is a 'surprise' of soft served vanilla ice cream. Heaven on earth on a hot summer day.) We set out on search each weekend for a different festival, complete with all the great classic food. All the while, poor Ryan is still listening to me complain about how this is only the third summer since I was in second grade that I am not at camp.

We have taken full advantage of exploring our island. There are no long road trips. No honking the horn when you cross the state line. No rest areas or freeways. Just us. We set out, supplied with a full tank of gas, a semi-descent map, and an idea of our destination. Armed with a camera we laugh about how our friends and families would react to the sights we see, people we meet, and adventures we have.



One might think that after a while the beach is no longer relaxing. It's no longer peaceful. The nostalgia must be gone. That is not the case for us. Nothing will ever replace the enjoyment of an afternoon nap at the beach. If you ever decide to drop by and we aren't home. Head to the closest beach. You'll find us there.

Two of our new friends, Nate and Ann Marie, took us to the Navy Base to hike out to the Spanish Steps and spend a few hours snorkeling. It was the most peacefully place I have seen on the island. Besides the 4 of us there were only 2 other people there. The cove was flanked by towering cliffs. The coral came in every shape and color, fish were everywhere. Yes, that is an actual starfish in the picture above.





The hike down only took a few minutes but felt like we were in the film "Honey I Shrunk the Kids". The jungle soared above us. The fallen palm branches felt monstrous. The baby coconut trees seemed like gargantuous blades of grass. Even the wild life seemed abnormally huge!






The Spanish Steps were constructed to gain access to a fresh water drinking well. After surpassing the well and concluding it is simply a pile of crumbling rock, the jungle opens up to a beautiful scene of cliffs. The channel leads out to the ocean and shipping lanes.


















felt like I was in Indiana Jones














To celebrate 4th of July we headed to Navy for Freedom Fest. It offered the food every good festival has. Hamburgers, Hot Dog, Cotton Candy, Sno Cones, Popcorn. Different military vehicles from the past were on display.

Bounce houses galore for children and adults alike. There was a live band and prizes to be won. Unfortunately, we did not win the 'grand prize' of 2 round trip tickets to anywhere in Asia. How fun would that have been? But we enjoyed all the festival had to offer with the company of several friends.
This is our dear friend Deb. 






I think they were both a bit excited about their cotton candy! It took about 30 minutes of standing in line, but seemed to be worth the wait.








50 cal machine gun mounted on a helicopter


July 9 was military appreciation day here on Guam. To honor those who served the military sets up displays at Asan Beach and invites the public to come and learn about the different jobs and equipment.


Sniper riffle (like the one the Canadian used to make the longest shot in Afghanistan)



Since Ryan volunteered to man the REDHORSE area, I ventured down to see what I could learn. Not so sure I learned much, but I can promise I fit in with all the other kids climbing on the equipment, examining the guns, and taking in sights.





When people ask Ryan, "what do you fly?" He always laughs and responds, "I drive big trucks." He's not kidding. He drives really big trucks.

For those who are concerned, Ryan never left me unattended. I said, "Don't worry. I know what I'm doing. My dad let me drive the tractor when I was 5." He didn't really seem to care.

We were fed lunch by locals. Traditional rice, noodles, bbq chicken, fried chicken and egg roles. DELICIOUS! but a bit spicy.








To top off a lovely Saturday we headed down to the beach club on base, Bamboo Willies, for a concert by 12 Stones. They are out of New Orleans and have toyed in the Christian Rock scene a bit. It was a wonderful way to spend an evening relaxing, people watching, and enjoying some live music.


Until next time, enjoy your vacation, go on a hike, find your mission field, indulge in an ice cream cone and explore a new festival. 

~From our rock in the middle of the Pacific.



Wednesday, 29 June 2011

Boonie Stomp'n Expedition #1

Occasionally you need to have an adventure, right? Well just this past weekend Ryan and I went on a hunt to find a school where I had a meeting, whole different story, but as we ventured down the crumbling pot hole filled disaster of a thing they call a road here in Guam we passed a familiar site. For those who share with me the love of the mountains you too will find it familiar to see a slew of cars pulled off the side of the road with no one in sight. Yes, its a trail head! I about jumped for joy as I have heard there are multiple places to go hiking but 'you must go with a local or you WILL get lost'. 


So Sunday we enjoyed breakfast and then decided to embark in our first adventure of a local favorite past time, Boonie Stomp'n! With a backpack stocked with snacks, water, a flashlight, goggles and camera, we head off to the recently discovered trail head. 


Pagat Caves was our destination. The trail was pretty well marked. As I explained it to a friend from camp "If you thought coming down from the Rappel Trail with the new fence with no gate that the BGTC put up was difficult, then you should come try to follow the neon pink tree flags on Pagat Trail. I'm pretty sure I walked in circles the entire way down." Tree flags were tied everywhere to mark the trail, I would look to the right and see tape leading up that rock, Ryan would look to the left and see tape leading across a few low limbs. One might say "Emily, just walk straight." Well that falls into a cave that is too dark to see the bottom. And who in their right mind would think that I would go into a cave that I know nothing about. Come on people, there could be bats in there. 


Keep in mind Guam is just a big piece of coral. With the slightest bit of moisture the algae comes out and the trails become treacherous. We gracefully slid down the muddy parts, climbed between low hanging branches, used our Spiderman skills to get up and over rocks and opted to skip out on the few incredibly scary looking caves we passed. But finally, "I hear it, oh wait, I see it... the PACIFIC OCEAN! Ryan you owe me ice cream for seeing the ocean first" (I'm still waiting on my ice cream.)


The view was beautiful. The ocean was a deep blue. The sky just above us was nothing but a gorgeous Carolina blue. In the distance there was a storm brewing. Looking down the coast line reveals no signs of civilization. The coral cliffs offered a place to explore and relax as we watched the waves crash on the rocks below. The cliffs are a favorite place to jump off into the deep pools below, but with the storm the ocean was as rough as I have ever seen. No better way to spend a Sunday than out on the coast with no one else in sight. A peaceful escape from life.


We enjoyed about half a hour out on the cliffs. I was certain that the storm out in the distance was coming towards us. Ryan assured me it was not. Only when out of no where the wind picked up to a flat out cold 45 mph  did we turn around to see the other storm coming over the mountain behind us. At that point Ryan agreed we needed to head back. We made it just under the tree cover before the Heavens opened up and the rain poured down. 



Needless to say we made it back safe and sound. The hike back was somewhat like trying hike up Sliding Rock. Every step we took forward we must have slid back 3. By the end, we were drenched, muddy, pretty stinky (see picture on the left) and thrilled with the completion of our first 'Boonie Stomp'.


There will be many more Boonie Stomps in our future. Some are easy enough to navigate yourself, others need to be led by a local who knows which tree to turn by, all are guaranteed to provide wonderful stories for us to share with you. Until next time, we will try not to slip down a mountain, be blown of a cliff, or end up covered in mud on our rock in the middle of the Pacific.

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Seeking out God and His people in Guam

Well hello faithful followers. It's been a while. I apologize. So as I've been talking with different friends back in the states the same question is asked over and over. "Have you guys found a church to get plugged into?" I always have the same response. Let me tell you about our hunt for a church.

I am not going to mention the names of the churches. They will simply be church 1, church 2 etc. No need to name names. Just enjoy the adventure. 

So going all the way back till the first week we were on the island. I spent many hours on the computer while Ryan was at work, seeking for a place to learn, grow, and serve. At first it seemed nearly impossible to find anything online. Once I found a list of Churches, I realized it included any "house of faith" you could think of. Protestant, Catholic, Mormon, Seventh Day Adventists, Baha'i, Islamic... should I continue. With this being an island nation with a long history of Catholicism, the 'protestant' churches tend to be more 'non-denominational' and a little more difficult to find. 

The first church I was able to find some solid theological information on happens to be a Baptist church. We examined their website and opted they would be Church 1 to visit. The website was promising. They have a 'contemporary' service, a school, a Bible college, and a radio station. The first Sunday on the island we ventured off to find Church 1. We made our way into the building. By all appearances it looked very 'American'. As we sat there in the pew, taking everything in, Ryan leaned over to me and whispered, 'they have an organ'. Not at all that there is anything wrong with an organ, but it is not quite what we would be looking for. By the end of the service we agreed it was not the place for us. Basically the only 'contemporary' thing is they project the hymns they sing onto a screen. 

Back to square one. I decided to email Manna Church (were we attended in Fayetteville). I explained we had recently moved away from the area with the military and asked if they, by chance, had any suggestions about a church in Guam. You know the military has to network for everything. The youth minister from Manna emailed me back and suggested church 2, which happened to be planted by the same couple who introduced him to the lead pastor at Manna. We decided to check it out.  As we walked into Church 2 it was full of people in the island attire and certainly seemed to be a celebration atmosphere. The music was hoppin', the people were jumpin'. However, they don't have a child care system for children over 2. I know it sounds petty, but as Ryan said, 'I stayed distracted by the kids'. 

Church 2 is part of a church planting ministry who happened to plant Church 3. We went there for Easter. It was very similar to Church 2 plus a children's ministry. We were told several times that they service was different because of Easter. So the following Sunday we ventured back to Church 3 with hopes of hearing the lead pastor preach. Unfortunately, it was a guest speaker. We agreed it was the best option, thus far. However, there were several places I had seen signs for that might be worth checking out. 

That week I looked up what would be Church 4 and Church 5. What I found stopped me dead in my tracks. Church 4 is a denomination that does not match our beliefs. Bummer, because I was very hopeful that it might work out. Church 5 was advertised as a 'coffee shop' or 'warehouse' church. I thought for sure it would be reaching the non-traditional and diverse population of the island. Unfortunately in my research I found it is actually a cult. Thank God for his protection and provision. 

Feeling totally discouraged we decided to spend Mother's day at the beach on base. I don't normally encourage people to skip church, but this worked out well for us. While we were soaking in the rays, people began to gather down by the water. Okay, not unusual. But what if I told you they were all fully dressed. Not really what you want to wear to the beach when its 90 degrees outside. I became intrigued, put my book aside and watched. Soon I saw 2 men in white robes come down through the sand. It didn't take long to figure out that the group congregating were there to witness their friends walk through the waters of baptism. I sat there, smiling to myself, watching new believers follow their savior in a symbolic representation of their faith. As the baptisms ended people were just standing around talking. I walked to the waters edge and asked 2 ladies, about my age, where they went to church. They explained that everyone there went to 1 of 3 services at the base chapel. These two ladies go to a service at the Lighthouse. It is a coffee house church, originally designed to reach the single and unaccompanied airmen. Over the past year it has grown and now is home to single, unaccompanied, newly married, young families, and anyone else who would like to join. We were invited to join the following Sunday at 6:00 pm. 

So what did we do? We went. It is an intimate settings, focused on community, designed to introduce people to, teach about and grow in Christ. So far we have really enjoyed it. It's not traditional church, but it is a place where we can develop relationships and help new believers grow in their faith. 

Through the Lighthouse, I met a few women involved in the PWOCPYOC (protestant youth of the chapel), on base. Do I really need to tell you how excited I was? They meet a 7 pm on Thursday night. Awesome! I found a place I can get plugged in. 

Just to show you how awesome God is, that very first Thursday Ryan and I had planned to check out the youth group, I was called to substitute. I walk into the assigned class and met Jacob Dowdell. He went over the days lessons and left me in charge. At lunch I was talking to another teacher who I met at PWOC and she informed me that Jacob is the youth pastor. Crazy small world! When Ryan and I arrived at youth, we ran into another couple who recently moved here from Pope AFB and were eager to get plugged in. As the 4 of us walked in the front door there stood Jacob. He looked at me with a confused expression and I explained we are all new to the island and are here to help. He explained how the couple who usually helps is off the island and he was just standing there praying to God for help to get through the evening. He had no idea how he could set up, pick up food, lead worship and teach, and clean up by his self. By the end of the time, Jacob and I decided to meet Friday after school to talk a bit about the youth group and about me. No youth minister wants some random person working with his kids. While we talked Jacob shared he is not only a 3rd grade teacher and youth minister, but also the drama club sponsor, middle school girls soccer coach, and high school football coach. I think I found a way to get connected to everything I love. 

Since then Ryan and I have been spending our Thursday evenings with the youth group. They are teens struggling with the same issues as every other teen, but they also face the stresses of military life. I have had the chance to teach twice. The girls are eager to learn how to fit in while still living a life for Christ. Hopefully this weekend will be a great learning experience about that as I am walking out the door to a girls retreat hosted by the PWOC for the youth group girls. 


As always we covet you prayers as we seek God's will for us on our rock in the middle of the Pacific. 

Monday, 30 May 2011

Happy Memorial Day

Having a chance to say thank you to our troops comes on a daily basis for someone like me. Taking time to smile and wish them a happy day can change the life of a sole soldier. "Welcome Home" are sweet words that it is a privilege to utter. Today, I think of the people who stood and were recognized in church services across the country for their service.  I think of the men and women who paid the ultimate sacrifice to give us our freedoms. I think of the families who bare the heavy burden to say their father or mother, husband or wife, son or daughter, brother or sister, grandfather or grandmother gave it all for our nation. I think of the days they must still choke back tears, the moments that loved one does not have the chance to witness, the lives that were seemingly taken much too soon.

Driving down Marine Drive on Saturday we passed Asan Beach (see previous post on the details of this sacred piece of land). To our surprise the field was saturated with American flags and Guam flags. It was breath taking. The sacrifice that played out on that land is what Memorial Day is all about.

One plaque in the park reads, "This memorial is a testament... they knew at last their sacrifices have not gone unnoticed... and will never be forgotten."
                     -Lieutenant Governor of Guam

President Harry S Truman said, "Our debt to the heroic men and valiant women in the service of our country can never be repaid. They have earned our undying gratitude. America will never forget their sacrifices".

So I ask, what did you do for Memorial Day? Did you seek out an old friend and say thank you? Did you sit and listen to stories about your grandfathers days in the service? Did you stop and shake the hand of the vet you just walked past? Take a moment. Say "thank you". I promise it will change their life.

We enjoyed a quiet day, just the two of us. Laughed at dinner with great friends. And were reminded that military life is always full of wonderful people, amazing adventures and never ending surprises.

Happy Memorial Day from our rock in the middle of the Pacific.

Sunday, 29 May 2011

Agat Mango Festival


A holiday weekend calls for a new adventure. We have attempted to join in on several festivals since we've been here. However, if you recall, the banana festival was a slight let down. Then we drove about as far away from our house as possible here on the island to visit the Coconut festival. We found the park... but no festival. Appears I (Em) read a magazine that had a misprint on the date. So at attempt 3 we ventured out to the Mango Festival. 

Best news is we found it. Second best news is it was more of what we expected. Next best news is we had a great time. 

  







The park was on the coast over looking a point on the backside of Navy. Having the water as the back drop of the festival is a wonderful touch. Too bad Main Street in Hendersonville doesn't follow the Pacific Ocean. What a wonderful location for the Apple Festival! 








Vendors were demonstrating how to pickle mangoes, make mango smoothies, fry mango 'empanadas' (for lack of a better word), selling mango jam, explaining the differences in the varieties of mangoes, and proudly displaying their most beautiful, largest, and most bizarre mangoes grown. 

Most Beautiful Mango

Most Bizarre Mango (note the post-it. no ribbon, just a post-it)


Largest Mango (it is the biggest mango I've ever seen)


Along with all the mango treasures the festival was alive with performances from local artists and dancers. The air was full of the aroma of funnel cakes, cotton candy, traditional bbq, and Thai food.  Relief was found from the heat with fresh squeezed fruit juices and sno-cones. I think I could get a job. Would I be considered a 'carny'? Cause that would be awesome.


Ryan is very excited about his home made mango jam. The treasures we find can make a good day wonderful.


Before we left we purchased a few plants in attempt to begin planting a little garden. The vendors assured us the ones we selected will thrive in lots of sun and with little care. Hopefully that means we can actually keep them alive. Guess we will see. 

Have a wonderful holiday weekend. Hope yours is as adventurous as ours on our rock in the middle of the Pacific. 

Monday, 23 May 2011

The grand tour just for YOU!

As promised, your own personal tour of our home. Don't you feel special?
This is the view from the street. Please note the two car garage. We are truly moving up in the world; minus the one car family thing. Guess a one car garage would have worked just fine. As Ryan says, "plenty of storage! Guess we need some toys to fill the space".




As you walk in the front door to the left you see the dining room and kitchen. The sliding glass door on the right side of the picture opens up to a patio. We are on the hunt for some super cute furniture. Can't wait to have some other couples over for a cook out.






I have never seen a kitchen with so much storage. We have ample counter space. Perfect for preparing yummy summer food year round!

On the left side of the picture is a floor to ceiling pantry that is about 7 feet wide. We've decided to set aside an entire pantry for our typhoon survival kit. Drinking water, canned goods, tuna, ramen noodles.... you know everything that a college kid lives off of.



To the left of the entry way is our living room. It is an odd long shape room. We decided to use our humongous brown couch to divide it into a sitting area and a living room.

Here you see our 'sitting area'. So formal. I love to sit with the bay window open and enjoy my morning coffee and a good book. If you ever Skye with me it's also where I usually choose to sit.

The ceilings are slightly vaulted and have 2 fans which create a wonderful breeze in the evenings.

Most people will ask what the white thing is on the wall... it's a slit A/C unit. We have 3 in our house so we can cool the room we are using instead of trying to cool the entire house with the central A/C. Needless to say that can get incredibly expensive. No need for heat here.

It is certainly beginning to look like home.

Whenever you decide to come visit paradise this will be your room. It has a private bath just to the left side of the bed. We still need to hang some curtains. It's great for your mainland get away!





Continuing down the hall, we have a second bath. Just in case there is a big group who decide to come visit....















We are using one bedroom as an office of sorts. It has proven to be a great place to sit and search for  a job. Hopefully we'll be able to find a book shelf. I ran out of space.





There is also plenty of room to put an air mattress or 2 if needed for all my friends with kids who are coming to visit.






The master bedroom is at the back of the house. We have a small patio out the sliding glass door. You may notice the glass doors are very dark. We have the typhoon shutters pulled to help with energy use and to block out the morning sun.

Another note of us moving up in the world is the huge walk in closet as seen below. Our bath has a tub and stand up shower with his and her sinks. It's the small things in life!
                                    




The final bedroom has become our toy box were we are keeping snorkel gear, bikes, winter clothes, Christmas decorations and all of Ryan's military gear. I'm not really sure how we had all this in our little apartment in Fayetteville.






That's our home. The last big task is to plant our little garden/flower bed. I have big dreams. A coconut tree, pepper plant. Maybe some mangoes or fresh herbs. Oh wouldn't it be great to have fresh banana's on your cereal... decisions... decisions...







Plain and simple, I just don't know where to start. Any suggestions for turning my brown thumb green are greatly appreciated.

Hope you enjoyed your tour. Feel free to visit anytime. Our neighborhood is full of kids and a great place to take a walk and enjoy the outdoors. 

See you soon our rock in the middle of the pacific...